Tubing
I actually acquired the tubes and lugs before completing the diagram. That way I could trace the bottom bracket shell to get the crank axis and get the fork crown height by measuring it right off the fork crown.
I did a fair amount of surfing before I settled on Nova Cycles Supply for this stuff. Their site seemed the easiest to place an order online for someone who doesn't really know what their doing. I could browse their product and order tubes and lugs in sets that work together. Of course they're in California so shipping to Canada is expensive. I purchased "Nova" tubes and lugs. Ironically I suspect they are made by Nova Steel Inc. in Quebec. So it goes.
A milling machine would be handy if there was a large batch of tubes to be done but with just one tube set it's not really necessary. Some sharp files and a hacksaw will do the job quite well. After scribing the tube miter using the lug as a template I just cutaway a V with the hacksaw and then finish the miter with my half round files. It doesn't take very long but you must have tubing blocks to secure the tube while working on it without dinging it. I made tubing blocks out of wood for 1", 1 1/8", and 1 1/4" tubes.
I did a fair amount of surfing before I settled on Nova Cycles Supply for this stuff. Their site seemed the easiest to place an order online for someone who doesn't really know what their doing. I could browse their product and order tubes and lugs in sets that work together. Of course they're in California so shipping to Canada is expensive. I purchased "Nova" tubes and lugs. Ironically I suspect they are made by Nova Steel Inc. in Quebec. So it goes.
Mitering
The down tube and top tube are butted at both ends. There's a short butt and a long butt. The end with the short butt is marked with colored dye. This end is mitered first, the other end is where the tube is cut to length.A milling machine would be handy if there was a large batch of tubes to be done but with just one tube set it's not really necessary. Some sharp files and a hacksaw will do the job quite well. After scribing the tube miter using the lug as a template I just cutaway a V with the hacksaw and then finish the miter with my half round files. It doesn't take very long but you must have tubing blocks to secure the tube while working on it without dinging it. I made tubing blocks out of wood for 1", 1 1/8", and 1 1/4" tubes.
Lugwork
I bought the Nova oversize investment cast lug set. This lug set accommodates 1 1/8" seat tube and top tubes with 1 1/4" down tube and comes in standard angles only. The angles can be modified a degree or two with a little lug work. My drawing had to be modified in order to use these lugs. The top tube was sloped and I gave up some of my fork clearance. It seems like the choices are to conform to what's available, or build your own lugs. I suppose that's because most bikes are fillet brazed or tig welded now.
Various files, emery cloth, assorted grinding wheels, and a little heat forming was used to get the lugs to look and fit the way I wanted. To create a cutout, I drilled a hole and then used needle files to shape it. Some pinning will be required so to make my first attempt a little easier I ordered a pinning kit. It comes with drill bits, pins and instructions.
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Tubing Blocks |
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Lug Mandrel |
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